Café 79, the 24-hour diner on 79th Street, has been on the corner of our street since I moved to this neighborhood, 17 years ago. The owner, Steve, and his nephew Chris, have watched my son grow up. It is at this diner where Alexander, when he was about three, orders French Toast, without the French. He mostly likes his food unadorned…both then and now. It is also at this diner where I would pick up a cup of coffee most mornings (before I bought my Keurig coffee maker, about a year ago). The counter waiters all knew the exact amount of half and half I like. And on the evenings when we would eat there, Alexander and I rarely had to order. The waiters knew to get Alexander a grilled cheese and Coke, and a turkey burger-mustard on the side- and Diet Coke for me. The big variable was always one order of fries to split, or two separate orders, but always crispy.
When I return from the Cape this August, there is a sign on the door of the diner thanking its patrons and saying goodbye. I feel a bit betrayed that Steve and Chris never let on that they were closing. Our most familiar dining establishment is gone, literally over night.
About a year earlier, this happened with a pricey restaurant across the street. With excitement, we wondered what the new residents had planned. Another restaurant maybe? A health club (that’s always my hope, because I think if it’s right outside my door than I’ll have no excuse but to join, and more importantly, join AND go)? A hip retailer? A convenience store? So many possibilities. And then so much disappointment when a vitamin store opens. Not even a health food store. Just a big store selling vitamins. What a waste.
And soon after that, a small health and beauty aid store closes. I used to frequent this store for little odds and ends. Then one day it's gone, and in its place appears a Chinese Antique Furniture store. Just what the neighborhood needs. Within six months, that is gone too.
By mid-September, it is clear that something is happening in the space the old diner once inhabited. Early on the workmen tell us that this, too, will be be a diner. There’s no reason to waste time hoping it’ll be a health club. We watch as new windows are installed. The outside is repainted in orange and brown. Not the best color combination. The new owners decide to use the same name. Are they just not creative or is there that much brand equity in the Café 79 name? I would doubt it, but hey, I only I eat there.
A week ago the new diner opens, and tonight Carol and I decide to go there for dinner. Everything is crisp and cheery. Even the diners look happy to be there. The staff is very nice and appropriately solicitous. Before leaving the house, I had studied the menu. I even checked the point value for a few things, But when it comes time to order, I revert to my standard diet fare: turkey burger and Diet Coke (only Pepsi, I’m told). It's very good; in fact, it tastes exactly the same as the meal the old diner used to serve. I miss the familiar faces, but one day these new faces will be the familiar ones. I at once feel at home.
No comments:
Post a Comment